Chiapas Mexico, A relatively Unknown Magical Corner of Mexico

Norm Goldman

July 28, 2007

Today, Norm Goldman Publisher & Editor of the travel site SKETCHANDTRAVEL.COM is excited to have as our guest, Carl Lee-McLellan who is an expert on Chiapas, Mexico. Carl is here today to share his expertise and experiences concerning Chiapas.

Good day Carl and thanks for participating in our interview.

No problem Norm I'm always exited to talk about southern Mexico and its vast potential for both tourism and eco-tourism.

Norm:

Carl, please tell our readers where is Chiapas Mexico and why is it considered to be Mexico exotic last frontier?

Carl:

Chiapas is Mexico's most southern state. It boarders Guatemala on the southeast, Oaxaca state to the west and to the north it boarders the state of Tabasco.

It is Mexico's least populated state and also it's poorest. Chiapas is populated primarily by indigenous peoples with the Maya making up the largest segment.

In 1996 an indigenous group calling themselves the Zapatistas fought with the Mexican government over their rights to the states vast natural resources.

Prior to the uprising most monies derived from resource extraction left Chiapas and found it's way to Mexico City with very little staying within the state. Since the uprising the political situation has become much more stable and the people of Chiapas have faired better and tourism has gained in popularity with the international community. Understandably the uprising kept tourist numbers low and people are just now learning about this secret spot that is now wide open for exploration and enjoyment.

Norm:

How and why did you become interested in Chiapas?

Carl:

My wife/guiding partner and I had just finished putting the final touches on *Austin-Lehman Adventure's (ALA) Oaxaca Mexico adventure and had some time to explore Chiapas on our own. While we were in Oaxaca we kept hearing two things about Chiapas;

San Cristobal and it's intoxicating blend of Spanish Colonial influences mixed with ancient Maya animism and Palenque with it's proximity to numerous ancient Maya ruin sites and awe-inspiring natural wonders. We spent three weeks on a whirlwind tour of these two areas and decided that this was a place we absolutely had to return to.

A few months later I was helping out at the ALA office in Billings, Montana and Dan Austin asked me, if I were to build a trip anywhere in North America where would it be?

Chiapas was still fresh in my mind and the more I had been thinking about the infrastructure of the state and its ability to offer our guests an ALA top-shelf experience; I had to give Chiapas as my reply.

Dan said that he and Paul Lehman had been looking for new adventures to offer our guests and they were interested in me writing a few pages outlining why Chiapas would make for a great trip. I did and that got the ball rolling. Working with state tourism agencies and local tour operators we ran a two week in-depth scout of San Christobal and Palenque. My wife and I then spent another month in San Cristobal putting the final touches on the itinerary. It was such a treat to be able to explore Chiapas in depth and we look forward to adding other locations and programs in the near future.

Norm:

I understand your arrange trips to Chiapas. Could you tell us something about these trips and what can one expect from such a trip?

Carl:

The trips I guide for *Austin-Lehman Adventures are 8 Days & 7 Nights in length. They begin in Villa Hermosa and end in Tuxtla Gutierrez, both served by reliable commercial air service.

They are equal parts active and cultural. Guests will experience hiking, biking, and take cultural walking tours of Maya villages in the Sierra Madre Sur. They'll tour ruins and pyramids (be prepared to do some moderate step climbing). We'll boat into Sumidero Canyon to observe crocodiles, spider monkeys, cormorants and herons.

There's swimming and exploring the rich blue waters of Agua Azul Falls. And we'll witness up close astonishing frescoes and ornamented building facades, roof combs and impressive stone lintels in the Maya ruins of Palenque, Yaxchitlán and Bonampak and visit a native women's paper making collective and a textile co-op.

Lodging is upscale in distinctive haciendas, resorts and hotels. Everything is included, even the meals which are as authentic to the region as possible. The price for 2007 is $2,998 per person, based on double occupancy. Dates for the remainder of the year are; September 23-30, October 28-November 4 (Day of the Dead Festivals), and December 23-30 (Christmas). The best thing is that we only take 12 guests max with 2 experienced guides and a driver.

For more info contact ALA at 1.800.575.1540 or ONLINE

Norm:

Would you recommend Chiapas as a romantic and/or honeymoon destination and if so why? As a follow up, could you name and briefly describe the most romantic venues in Chiapas?

Carl:

Personally Norm, I find Chiapas incredibly romantic for a number of reasons. Exploration has to be my first reason.

It seems everything one does in Chiapas feels like an exotic experience. Strolling remote Maya ruin sites or Spanish Colonial cobblestone streets one has the opportunity to pop into situations that are unique to most travel experiences.

For example; when we visit the ruin sites of Bonompak and Yaxchilan we are escorted through these sites by one of the lead Mexican archeologists who did some of the initial diggings. His insight and personal wit make this day seem like you are there for the initial excavation.

My six romantic venues in Chiapas would be:

* Exploring the cobbled streets of the Spanish colonial city, San Cristobalde Las Casas, is heady with romance. During the day popping into markets, shops, museums, indigenous artesian co-operatives, street cafes and restaurants, is a colorful and eye-opening way to get a feel for the unique history of this city. Follow this with dinner at one of the many wonderful regional or internationally inspired restaurants, then an unhurried stroll back to your meticulously restored 18th century hacienda.

A quick after dinner aperitif while gazing at the stars from your veranda, before heading off to a comfy bed, finishes the day in excellent romantic form.

*A visit to Agua Azul is a must. This vast system of cascades and waterfalls allows for both spectacular views and the chance to wander up river and find your own little private hideaway. Pick up some lunch to go at one of the many restaurants and unpack your picnic on the banks of a quite pool and you have the makings of a romantic interlude to add to your day of exploring.

*An early morning visit to the ruin site of Palenque. By getting there early you beat some of the day's heat and crowds that show up on buses. The air is generally still and ruins mist-filled. As the sun melts the mist away the Howler monkeys begin their morning serenade. The sounds of the jungle and the howling blended with the spectacle of Palenque, makes for an intoxicating and primordial moment; one that is guaranteed to be talked about for years to come.

*Take a morning boat ride up the Grijalva River into the Sumidero Canyon. The scale of this place is vast. At times the walls of the Canyon soar to as much three thousand feet above the river! We have seen Crocodiles from the boat as well. Follow that with lunch on the Zocalo\town square of Chiapa de Corzo in a bustling local restaurant. The Marimba is a popular musical instrument in this town and you will hear its sounds drifting out of many of the local eateries. After, the drive up to San Cristobal de Las Casas is a scenic way to end the day.

*Traveling up the Usumacinta River to the remote ruin site of Yaxchilan. One arrives at this site after a 45 min. boat ride down river. All the while Central America lies on the opposite river bank. Guatemala beckons on one shore as one looks for Crocodiles and Jaguar on the river's banks. Ruins start to become visible through the jungle and soon you are at Yaxchilan. This ruin site has been described as one of the most beautiful of the Maya world.

There are plenty of structures to visit and explore. The whole visit takes on a very Indiana Jones feel. Narrow trails through the jungle lead to different buildings and mixed with the sounds of the jungle and the fact there are far fewer visitors make for intimate explorations. Sitting alone on the steps of a temple imagining what this place may have looked like in the past is high on the romance scale.

The people of Chiapas have been struggling to find their place in the modern world. They steadfastly hold to their ancient ways. Tourism is important to them in that they can continue to practice the old ways and customs for the people who visit with them and earn an income at the same time. How romantic is that. To be able to help the people, through just visiting a region, find their place in the modern world while still being able to embrace their past.

Norm:

How safe is travel to Chiapas?

Carl:

Travel to Chiapas is very safe. Both the Mexican government and the Zapatista rebels understand that tourism is the best way to keep revenues in Chiapas. When I was doing the initial ALA scout in Chiapas the Zapatistas implemented a two day blockage of the major roads of Chiapas.

This was done as a solidarity movement to show support for protesters in a nearby state. We arrived at the first roadblock at 6am not knowing what to expect. After twenty minutes of waiting, all tourism vehicles were allowed to pass freely while other vehicles were restricted. This happened over five more road blocks throughout the day. By day's end it was quite obvious that tourism is both highly valued and protected by the people of Chiapas.

The roads are modern as are the vehicles that transport tourists. There are modern hospitals in all urban areas and as part of an ALA scout we cover access to medical care in great detail.

Mexico often gets a bad rap, (at times deservedly so), over water and food handling. If you are only going to be in Chiapas for a short while, do avoid eating in markets and off of street vendors. If you can't resist local charms, eat at the places where there are a lot of people.

The food turns over more quickly and doesn't sit around as long. Most restaurants have very clean kitchens and they wash vegetables with purified water. At ALA we pre-inspect and experience all of the restaurants we use during a tour and discuss in detail our needs with hotel and restaurant managers.

Common sense and some research are always prudent when visiting any foreign place. Dangerous situations can be found anywhere people travel even in the U.S. The people of Chiapas are very proud and in my travels through this wondrous state I have never been made to feel unsafe or threatened.

Norm:

Can you tell us something about the different cultural groups that inhabit Chiapas?

Carl:

The majority of the ethnic makeup of most Chiapanecos is Meztiso, a mix of Spanish and Indigenous blood lines.

Ten percent of the state's population belongs to the following ethnic groups;

Zoques, who have been linked to the pre-maya Olmec culture;

Tzotziles, who practice religious ceremonies that are a blend of Catholic and animistic rites. They open their church in Chamula for visitors to view these practices and believe me they are an eye-opener. They involve Shaman, many candles, chickens etc.;

Tzeltales, who are the born craftspeople of the state, they work primarily with textiles and handcrafts;

Tojolabals, who speak the Chuj language of the Cuchumatanes of Guatemala, again these people blend Catholisism with ancient pre-Hispanic practices;

Choles, who have been accredited with the construction of site of Palenque;

Lacondones, this group is one of the most mysterious in the Maya culture. To this day they live in isolated jungle communities for the most part away from the rest of Chiapas. Their relative isolation has allowed them to preserve their language and customs more so than other groups within Chiapas;

Mames, who represent about 26% of the total indigenous population of the state. They are primarily involved in agriculture, cacao and coffee; and finally the Mochos, who are strongly linked to nearby Guatemaltecan groups. They share the same territory as the Mames.

Norm:

What kind of accommodations can one expect in Chiapas?

Carl:

Accommodations in Chiapas cater to all types of travelers. From exquisitely restored haciendas and monasteries that receive five- star ratings to award-winning eco-lodges, to quaint hostels and inns, Chiapas offers something for every travel budget.

Norm:

Could you tell us something about the cuisine in Chiapas?

Carl:

The food of Chiapas is quite simple. The majority of the people live with corn as the primary food in their diet. They supplement corn with eggs, chicken, pork or fish but because the average annual income in Chiapas is about $1500 USD a year, any meat they come by is generally sold at the local market.

The barbecue or assado is the primary way they cook meat and there are a number of restaurants that specialize in this style of cooking. Most hotels and restaurants fuse traditional foods with international styles to make meals more palatable to tourist tastes.

Those with vegetarian leanings can find much to satisfy their palate but ordering some foods like soups or salsas should be avoided as stocks used to prepare these things generally are chicken, pork or beef based. One needs to ask before sampling if they want to maintain a strict vegetarian diet.

Chiapas and Tabasco are where most of the Cacao, (cocoa), is grown so there are a number of dishes that incorporate chocolate, i.e., Moles.

Norm:

I understand that Chiapas is known for eco-tours. Could you elaborate?

Carl:

Chiapas is home to vast tracts of virgin jungle still. The Lacondon forest has a number of eco-resorts from which guests can do guided day trips to explore the surrounding eco-systems. 40% of the wildlife that lives in Mexico resides in Chiapas. There are over 600 species of birds alone that live in Chiapas.

The Guacamayas eco-tourist center is a preserve for the endangered Scarlet Macaw and at sunrise and sunset they become a noisy spectacle as they leave and return to this site in great numbers.

As one travels from Palenque to Yaxchilan there are countless unexcavated ruin sites along the side of the road. There are numerous bio-reserves, waterfalls, lakes and jungles to take guided tours in. In the two months we have spent touring Chiapas we feel we have only scratched the surface of the eco-tourism opportunities the state has to offer.

The Chiapanecos see their natural world as a valuable resource and are taking the necessary steps to ensure these natural places will stay protected and unaltered for future generations of their families and tourists to enjoy.

Norm:

When is the best time to visit Chiapas?

Carl:

The best time to visit is just after the rainy season, (late September/early October), when things are greenest and the rivers and waterfalls are at their peak. San Cristobal de Las Casas is at a higher elevation, (6000 ft), things do get chilly at night so bring warmer cloths for this part of the visit to Chiapas. Most of the nicer hotels have fireplaces in each room so that is also a good way to chase away the evening chill.

During the summer while the rest of Mexico is under a hot sun, places like San Cristobal are quite nice due to their elevation.

Starting about March places like Palenque and Comitan start to get uncomfortably hot because they are about 4500-feet less in elevation than the highlands.

Norm:

Is there anything else you wish to add that we have not covered?

Carl:

Just that words, can't begin to capture how magical this tiny corner of Mexico really is. Travel affects everyone a bit differently but no one will walk away from Chiapas unchanged. It happened to me and it has happened to everyone I've had the privilege to lead on a guided trip through this remarkable region.

Thanks again and bon voyage!

Note on Austin-Lehman Adventures

*Austin-Lehman Adventures specializes in upscale multisport adventures to iconic destinations throughout the Americas. Most of their small group vacations are six days and five nights in duration, and combine guided outdoor activities such as hiking, biking, rafting, canoeing, and horseback riding with nights spent at a series of distinctive inns and lodges. Lunch is usually served gourmet picnic-style along the trail, and breakfast and dinner take place at the finest cafés and restaurants the region has to offer. Prior experience is not a prerequisite and adventures cater to a wide range of abilities. On adult adventures participants need to be 16 years old or above. Expressly designed family adventures are suitable for children as young as seven (7) years of age.

Norm and Lily Goldman are a husband and wife team that meld words with art focusing on romantic and wedding destinations. To read more of their articles and interviews click on

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